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What to wear: Semi Casual
What to order: Pastrami Hummus
About: Let’s talk Turkey. Istanbul, Turkey to be exact. Spices, honey, pistachios, cheeses, and teas all produced here in this fabulous country. After a long flight you might be in the mood for a casual dinner with a view- and Ali fits the bill. The mezzes are presented so you can see what you’re getting and all tasted better than they looked: olives with dried fruits, pickles and peppers, and beets with truffle oil. Skip the mezze hummus go for the pastrami upgrade- why not? Try a few kebobs if you’re still hungry after eating the popover like bread to your fill. If you’re there in the evening the bird ballet and sunset over old city is breathtaking from the rooftop above the restaurant.
4/13/2025
Sultanahmet Koftecisi
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What to wear: Semi Casual
What to order: Köfte
About: Tourist traps got you down? This locals only restaurant will lift you back up. Located near the Blue Mosque, it has been family owned for generations. Former living spaces have been transformed into rooms with a view in order to have more eating space- just head up the narrow stairs. Do as the Turkish do, and hollow out the bread to make room for the meat (lamb and köfte/meatballs) and salad together. Be sure to take their offer of chili paste- it’s not hot, but like the restaurant, is full of local flavors.
4/14/2025
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What to wear: Semi Dressy
What to order: Trakya Kivircik (Lamb with spicy apricot)
About: You’re in the mood for a happening rooftop meal? Move on over to Mürver. A table overlooking the Bosphorus is best, but honestly the decor is so cool that any table worth the reservation. Feeling friendly? There’s a bounty of Turkish bites to share or you can order mains, some also shareable for a party of two or three. All are cooked on an open fire brink oven. Not quite satisfied? Delicious desserts will turn your frown upside down.
4/14/2025
Lale Restaurant & Pudding Shop
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What to wear: Casual
What to order: Lamb Döner Platter
About: Homesick yet for a home cooked meal? Lale’s food and staff will make you feel warm and cozy- after all, they’ve been doing this for nearly 70 years. The menu is different daily, but you can see what’s been prepared for you just like in your family’s kitchen. Downstairs is crowded with local and tourists, due to the proximity to the Hagia Sophia, but you can head upstairs for a quieter experience. Nope, I didn’t try the pudding. Next time…
4/15/2025
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What to wear: Semi Dressy
What to order: The Gnocchi shareable
About: Not to miss this Turk-ish symphony of global cuisine with a Golden Horn twist. Four sections include appetizers like tater tots; soups and salads like carrots with stracciatella; and the crescendoing mains like oxtail pavé and duck confit with orange puree; followed by the final movement – dessert of a deconstructed banana split or dolce crème brûlée. Just when you think it’s over, the Maestro himself makes an appearance as an encore. Bravo! Lezzetli!
4/15/2025
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What to wear: Semi Casual
What to order: Pastrami hummus, yet again
About: What do you want? What do you want? I want over 80 mezzes! Don’t be afraid to be go crazy with your ordering, as everything is prepared to perfection. I skipped the boiled brains and veal tongue in lieu of artichokes with dill, Aegean salad, and mackerel in oil- and those are just the starters. Mains included lamb ribs and beef tenderloin, a meat lovers mania. For dessert, I went for the traditional semolina, but more western treats like bittersweet chocolate soufflé and ice-cream were delicious too. Otto-mania!
4/16/2025
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What to wear: Semi Casual
What to order: Truffle pizza
About: It’s hard to resist eating Italian when you’re in Europe and being this close the Mediterranean Sea might make it even harder to resist. So if you find yourself in the Maçka Palas area on a beautiful day ask for a table outside on the loggia at Cipriani. Great service is always the focus of this Venetian transplant and all their classic dishes make an appearance on the menu- including their famous Tagliolini, truffle pizza, and butter and sage raviolis. A cappuccino and some pistachio ice cream might give you the energy needed you need to window shop or people watch in the surrounding swanky Istanbul neighborhood. Or, if you’re like me, an afternoon nap is on the menu.
4/18/2025
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What to wear: Semi Dressy
What to order: Every and Any Dumpling
About: Looking for something special on your last night in Byzantine? Go over the top of the Peninsula Hotel, at their rooftop restaurant, Gallada. Sit at a table at the window overlooking the Bosphorus at night to spy the light house light show, the Blue Mosque all lit up in amber lights, and never resting ferries and water taxis transporting locals and visitors to the nightlife. The food inspired by the Silk Road is a fusion of Asian and Turkish cuisines. Bone marrow butter Pide, lahmacun dumplings, and milk ice banana desserts were delectable. Inspired mocktails are not to be missed here or on the upper the rooftop bar after dinner. Chilly evening?- don’t let that stop you, just ask for a blanket.
4/18/2025
Teen Gourmand 